Thursday, July 29, 2010

Ann Demeulemeester- Menswear Spring 2011

White on white prescribed the clinical influence highly apparent within the Spring 2011, Menswear collection by Ann Demeulemeester. I was fascinated by this collection, perhaps due to the notion that if I were not in fashion, medicine would be my next career option. The sterile atmosphere, achieved through the restraint of using a blank colour palette, allowed texture and garment details to speak for the collection. I am always drawn to a restrained design aesthetic, I wouldn’t go so far as to say that I am a minimalist, however I am constantly allured by design which shows constraint yet remains intriguing. Flicking through the following images on style.com, the jacket with shoulder fastening presented upon the screen, I found myself instantly envisaging the face of my dentist, Dr Tim Hall with torture tools in hand. For me this reminiscent element provided a comedic facet to the pristine range. The collection also provides an interesting slant on tailoring and how it is defined. Do these items meet the prescribed classifications of a tailored garment and if not, why? Personally, I think that their relevance lies within the overall structure and silhouette of the garments. Technically, it is the openings and their fastenings which really provokes my curiosity. The asymmetric jacket, when left unbuttoned, cascades down the torso in a really beautiful manner. I always struggle with the visual appearance of unbuttoned jackets which pass the centrefront, such as the double breasted jacket, I usually find them awkward and cumbersome, however, this piece works its unfastened stance just as well as buttoned.






Referred to as ‘the golden mile‘ Savile Row is the mecca for bespoke tailoring.

For over 200 years Gieves & Hawkes have hand-crafted the finest bespoke garments and have become established as the paramount English tailor, of international renown. Drawing upon a heritage of design and craftsmanship, combined with modern styling and innovation in hand cutting and tailoring, a bespoke suit from Gieves & Hawkes remains the ultimate sartorial investment – hand made in the work rooms of No.1 Savile Row.



Recent merchandising at Gieves & Hawkes.

Experts in the art of bespoke tailoring, Huntsman was founded in 1849, settling into Savile Row in 1919. Over the decades the company has acquired an illustrious customer history, including the likes of; Sir Winston Churchill, Katherine Hepburn, Rudolf Valentino and Bill Blass. The house offers a ready to wear collection, made to measure and bespoke service, as well as a vast selection of accessories, pattern bunches and shirtings.

The house has a team of experienced cutters, tailors, finishers and a presser working on site. All suits are hand cut and hand tailored in house, ensuring that the highest quality is maintained throughout every stage. Suits take on average 85 hours to produce and usually require three fittings.


Distinctive elements are notable to the house style, including a sharp shoulder, a slightly longer cut, a nipped sculptured waist and emphasis upon a clean line with a single button fastening.